TRIP REPORTS: CLIMBING TAYLOR PEAK VIA TAYLOR GLACIER

The Climb: Taylor Peak via Taylor Glacier

At 4:00 AM, James and I pulled up to the Glacier Gorge trailhead in Rocky Mountain National Park. Here, we met the rest of our climbing party (Andy, Brian, Jamie and Jamie). Our first challenge of the day was deciding whether or not we wanted to rope up for the climb. Given the 4+ mile approach to the foot of the glacier and the fact that most everyone had two ice axes (one mountaineering/one technical), we decided that the significant increase in weight would not be worth it. If the standard route became so slushy/unstable/steep that we could not make it up the crux, we knew that there were other ways to the top.

The hike to the glacier was scenic and relatively easy with the exception of a few short scrambles near the waterfall at Sky Pond. After leaving Sky Pond, we hiked over a short boulder field to the foot of the glacier where we put on our crampons and readied our axes. After a short rest, we began our ascent of Taylor Glacier. The entire length of the glacier (about 1,200 vertical feet) increased in steepness until we reached a near vertical section that led to a snow fin at the very top. Climbing the snow fin was a little bit awkward, but perhaps the most fun part of the climb. In order to avoid falling into the small crevasse on the other side, we straddled the ridge and pulled ourselves across using both axes. Since Brian had already climbed this route, he decided to take a narrower mixed route that split to the right of the standard route. After the entire party reached the top of the glacier, we ate lunch and then marched to the top of Taylor Peak (13,153ft). From the summit, James and I split from the rest of the group and made a very fast descent to Andrews Glacier. We glissaded down the glacier and hiked/jogged our way back to the Glacier Gorge trailhead. Another successful day in the mountains!

Difficulty Rating: Alpine Ice, 2+/3

Round Trip Distance: 11 miles

Vertical Gain: 4,100ft total, 1,200ft on Taylor Glacier