TRIP REPORTS: FLYING DUTCHMAN

With no hope of sunny weather plans coming to fruition (due to a dismal weekend forecast), we decided to take full advantage of the “training opportunity” by scheduling an alpine sufferfest via the Flying Dutchman couloir. After packing enough clothing, food and gear to battle adverse conditions, we arrived at the Long's Peak trailhead. Two miles into our journey, we had gained enough elevation to break through the fog and clouds. The eventual alpenglow turned into a spectacular sunrise above an inversion. As it grew lighter, we could tell that we were going to be treated with blue skies (photo #304)…for a while.

We skirted Chasm Lake (photos #296, 297, 298) and stopped at the base of the couloir where we sorted our gear and hiked a short length of talus to the beginning of the unconsolidated snow. The snow would remain unconsolidated throughout the couloir and the rocks were consistently loose. I sped up the first half of the couloir to get into position to shoot the rest of my party as they ascended to the midway point (photos #299, 300, 301). Just above the midway point, I reached a rock band that was about a foot shy of my own height (given the angle of approach). Had the snow been solid, we would have made quick work of this section. As the snow could not be trusted to hold any weight, I resorted to mixed climbing. It took a few tries before I found a rock that didn’t pull out of its position when I hooked it with my axes. Somewhere around this rock band, Jeff found an axe that had been lost by another one of our partners (Mark) the previous year. We reached the crux of the climb shortly after we had all made it over the rock band. While Brian set up the lower anchor, we discussed the appropriate ransom for Mark’s lost axe.

Fabio was the first to lead the ice section (WI3) and I followed next. Jeff led the second pair using Fabio’s pro and Brian cleaned the route. Upon reaching the top of the pitch, my hands were frozen solid from pump and wind. I had opted to climb this section in softshell gloves rather than deal with my bulky mitts. As I reached the top anchor, Fabio pointed out a perfect photographer’s perch to the right of the ice section. As my fingers thawed, my stubbornness faded and I took to Fabio’s perch (photos #302, 303).

Shortly after clearing the crux of the climb, we topped out at The Loft (just above 13,000 ft). The previous hours’ weatherman jokes were immediately hushed by fog, wind, and a mix of several types of precipitation (photo #305). From the top of The Loft, we traversed the high ridge and began our descent alongside Ship’s Prow. After a few hours of descending heinous switchbacks in fog and loose snow (photos #306, 307), we arrived back at Chasm Junction and proceeded to hike the last 3-4 miles back to the trailhead.